When I saw celebrated vegan chef and creator of the blog Sweet Potato Soul Jenné Claiborne’s new cookbook, I zeroed in on her recipe for Sweet Potato Yeast Donuts because, well, donuts! I’ve had amazing donuts from all parts of the world. It’s not just about the frying technique — it’s also about the dough. The two have to combine to produce a super-soft, puffy treat that is just as soft and supple when it is cool as it is when it is still warm from the fryer. The glaze should be thick enough to provide cover and optical haze, but thin enough to craze into a network of tiny little cracks when you bite into it, much like the glaze on your favorite vintage plate or teacup. And the glaze should complement, not overpower, the dough!