Garlic aïoli

“It’s a joy to partake in the ritual of making a good aïoli. The process has broken many a cook – not because it’s hard or complicated, but because it’s an emulsification of oil and egg yolk: add too much oil too quickly and it can easily split – this method demands focus. So why do it? Most shop-bought mayo, which would be the base, doesn’t use good oil, so here you have the power to make something lip-smackingly special. An aïoli is similar to a mayonnaise, but it’s pungent and almost spicy with the hum of raw garlic. It’s a boisterous condiment that, when made well and used in the right dish with restraint, is phenomenal. When a blob hits a hot soup, what might be too much in its raw state mingles to become something fantastic, and, when a small spoonful is rubbed across hot toast with cold roasted meats or dressed crab and a little lemon, you’ll discover a whole new level of deliciousness. So treat it more like Tabasco or English mustard, just like an antagonist. ”

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